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Electricity Cost

A 100 W device running 8 hours a day at $0.17/kWh costs $49.64 a year. The dryer: $0.38 a load. The math your utility hopes you never do.

Electric bills arrive as one opaque number — this calculator decomposes it. Every device is watts × hours ÷ 1000 = kWh, times your rate. Price the dryer load ($0.38), the always-on server, the second fridge in the garage, and the space heater that quietly out-earns your raise in the wrong direction.

Why people use this

Anyone staring at a power bill uses it: 100 W × 8 h at $0.17/kWh is $49.64 a year — price every appliance, find the vampires.

How it works

  1. Enter the device wattage (on the label or brick).
  2. Enter hours per day it actually runs.
  3. Enter your rate — check the bill; US average ≈ $0.17/kWh.
  4. Read daily, monthly, and yearly cost.
  5. Repeat per device to reconstruct your whole bill.

Common questions

What uses the most electricity in a house?

The hierarchy is consistent: HVAC dominates at 40–50% of a typical bill (a 3.5 kW central AC running 6 hours daily is $107/month at average rates), water heating second at ~14–18% (4.5 kW element, ~2 hours of run time), then the dryer ($0.38/load adds up to $46/year at 3 loads weekly), refrigeration ~8%, and lighting now under 5% thanks to LEDs. The vampire tier deserves its audit: cable boxes and game consoles idle at 10–30 W continuously — $15–45/year each for doing nothing. The audit method that works: run this calculator on the top five suspects, and you will find 80% of the bill. A $20 plug-in kill-a-watt meter catches the liars whose labels don't match real draw.

How do I find my electricity rate?

It is on the bill but disguised: divide the total dollar amount by total kWh used — that blended number (usually $0.12–0.25 nationally, ~$0.17 average) is the honest rate because it includes delivery charges and fees that the advertised "generation rate" hides. Watch the traps: tiered pricing (rate jumps after a baseline), time-of-use plans (peak afternoon power can cost 2–3× off-peak — huge for EV charging timing), and fixed monthly charges that make your marginal kWh cheaper than your average. Hawaii (~$0.40+), California (~$0.30), and the Northeast run high; Louisiana, Washington, and Idaho (~$0.10) are the cheap seats — which is why EV economics and heat-pump math flip completely by state.

Do devices use power when they are off?

Yes — standby ("vampire") draw typically runs 1–10 W per device, and a house full of them burns 50–100 W continuously: $75–150/year. The offenders: cable/DVR boxes (20–45 W even "off" — among the worst), game consoles on instant-on (10–15 W), smart speakers (2–4 W), chargers left plugged in (~0.3 W, negligible despite the reputation), and anything with a clock display. The math decides which battles matter: a 25 W DVR costs $37/year — smart-strip territory; a 0.3 W phone charger costs 45 cents — ignore it. Rule of thumb for the audit: every watt of 24/7 draw costs about $1.50/year at average rates, so round up the usual 10 W+ suspects and unplug with confidence.

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